In this article we will cover everything to do with claws, from choosing how many claws to the different types of tips (ends) of the claws. After reading this it will be easy for you to choose the right claw combination when buying an engagement ring.
Choosing how many claws has a lot to do with the shape of the diamond you choose, to make it simple we will break down the options in to different shapes. We’ll begin with round diamonds as they are the most popular shape.
In this shape you can chose 4 or 6 claws. In fact, round is the only shape where 6 claws can be used. The differences between the two choices are to be found below.
4 Claw setting for round diamonds can be used for any size stone from the smallest to the biggest, however keep in mind that most 4 claw settings come with a basket, unless you specify not to have one. The basket is the part that connects the 4 claws so the diamond looks like its sitting on it. The importance of the basket is to give strength to the claws. Keep in mind that if a basket is not used, our master jewellers have to make the claws thicker.
Another characteristic is the look, 4 claw settings make the round diamond look a bit squarish, but at the same time it shows more of the diamond.
6 Claw settings for round diamonds we recommend only using stones of around 0.80ct and bigger. When having 6 claws you need to cover more surface of the diamond. Hence a small diamond gets overpowered by too many claws surrounding it.
There are two main advantages of having 6 claws. Firstly, the diamond is held more securely. For the diamond to become loose, at least 2 claws would need to be damaged or bent out of shape. Secondly because it has more claws there is no need for a basket.
When it comes to the look, having 6 claws gives the diamond a round shape look. The only downside of having 6 claws is that shows more metal around the diamond, but this is less noticeable on larger stones.
All these shapes are generally done in 4 claws because it follows the shape of the stone. making the decision easy. On the odd occasion, some of these shapes are set in four “double" claws.
Pear shape diamonds are made with 3 claws most times. However, in some cases when the design doesn’t have a basket its best to use 5 claws.
Marquise diamonds can be seen in a two “V" claw which has a V shape on each end. This would require a basket for strength. Alternatively, it can be set with an additional claw on each side.
Eagle claws are when the tips of the claws (the part that bends over holding the diamond) look like the claws of an eagle. Currently it is the most fashionable claw and the most popular however this trend can change in the future. Looks wise as the eagle claws goes deeper in to the diamond it tends to cover more of the stone than the other 2 claw styles.
Square claws, as its name indicates, it’s when the tip of the claws finish like a square. This is the most classic claw finish and has been used by the big brand houses for decades. The claws cover less surface of the diamond so it shows more of the stone.
Round claws are when the tip of the claws finish like a half circle. This style is the most classic method and most master jewellers say it goes back for centuries. Just like the square claws, they cover less of the diamond surface so it shows more of the stone.
When it comes to the claw finish, our diamond setters choose the best style according to your specific diamond. However, if you would like to customise the claw finish let one of our friendly staff know.